BA-CK

So I guess I could have gone somewhere new, somewhere different, and had a new adventure for my last couple of weeks, but Buenos Aires was calling me back. I had friends there (including my good friends steak and wine, and a park full of cats), I knew the area, I had somewhere to stay, and I wanted some “cafe time”. I arrived in the evening and headed to my new neighbourhood of Recoleta where I would be staying with a friend of a friend. Carolina and her boyfriend Fabian were lovely, and my little colourful room was up a spiral staircase. I truly felt like a princess in a turret! It was a great apartment, old and high ceilinged, with just the right balance of crumble and colour, I loved it.

Carolina recommended a Spanish teacher, I checked out my local area and I was soon living my Argentine heaven – cafes and writing, parklife, wandering during the day, Spanish lesson early evening and out with a friend in the evening for dinner and wine.  This was the life!

March 24^th – So long to Dictatorship

On March 24th 1976, Military troops overthrew the Argentine government of Isobel Peron (third wife of Juan Peron) and started a seven year dictatorship.  During this time it is estimated that 9000 people, including a huge number of students, disappeared.  Nowadays a public holiday known as the “Day of remembrance for truth and justice” is held on March 24th. 

‘Never Again’ a slogan graffitied all over the city

There is a huge procession through the streets of Buenos Aires, in which Argentines unite to make the statement that there will never again be a dictatorship in their country.  People walk in crowds showing their allegiance for different political parties by wearing their colours, waving flags, singing chants, and carrying banners.  Although everyone is supporting different parties and ideologies, they are all there for the same cause, and it is a great and friendly atmosphere, akin to carnival.  There are sad moments in the procession though, many people parade posters and banners of their missing loved ones who disappeared during the dictatorship.  The procession for some people is a way of keeping memories alive.

I went along to watch the procession with Carolina and Fabian and was transfixed for hours.  The largest crowd was in support of Christina Kirchner, the current president, and since Carolina is pro-Christina, we joined this crowd as they sang their songs, banged their drums and chanted their way towards Plaza de Mayo.  It was a very positive atmosphere and in the crowded plaza in front of Casa Rosada, with the crowds chanting for Christina, I felt somewhat like I had been transported back 60 years to when Peron himself was in power.

And so the end is here

Some sad family news took me home earlier than expected, and so after 10 days back in Buenos Aires, I bid farewell to the cats in the park (by taking them leftover meat from my restaurant meal the night before), hugged my friends goodbye and took a taxi to the airport. 

Happy cats in the park feasting on prime Argentine meat!

As the taxi drove through the city to the airport, I watched the busy sunny streets of Buenos Aires from the window and I knew I would return.  It’s such a shame Argentina is so far away, but I guess if it were closer it would not hold the same delights and differences. 

I took a flight to Sao Paolo and then a plane home to Heathrow.  I took some medicine to help me sleep but I couldn’t relax.  The last 12 flights I had taken were taking me to new places and new people, whereas this flight was taking me home to my family.  It was a strange feeling for me.  Travelling had become normal life for me, but now I was supposed to be returning to normal life.

A hugely gracious pilot announced our arrival at Heathrow and I was reminded of English manners that had been so distant for the past six months.  Outside the window, England looked wet and grey. 

I had to wait at the open doors of the aeroplane whilst another transfer bus drove to us.  I stood there, looked down at my flip flops and looked out at the cold and wet day.  The BA air hostesses in front of me had this conversation after one of them had decended and ascended back up the staircase:

“You know what? It’s not actually that cold out there.” said air hostess one.

“Yes I think I can see some blue sky in the distance” The other replied as she stuck her head out of the door and her hair blew around in the wind.

“Yeap, I think it’s going to turn out nice.”

This conversation really made me smile as I walked down the staircase in my flip flops, and walked across the wet tarmac to the bus.  A sense of optimism is severely lacking in other countries!  My sister met me at the airport and we headed back to her house for a much needed cup of English tea and a cuddle with my little neice.  Later on that day we went down to see dad and the next day, although under difficult circumstances, we met up with the whole extended family. 

It was good to be back.

Back in England with Isobel